Shoe sewing machine



Aug. 10, 1943.. c. F. WHITAKER SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed Nov. 1, 19:9

2 Sheets-Sheet 1 Aug. 10, 1943. c. FQWHITAK ER SHOE SEWING MACHINE Filed Nov. 1, 1939 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 Patented Aug. 1943 1 dis reeme- The present invention relates toymethods oi handling a welt strip i having one edge dividedinto flaps, while being sewed to the marginal portion of ashoe upper, and to improvementsiin ma- 5 irsfiogsgw ememe;' i.

I fem FQ'WhitakerQ Beverly, *Me'ss, assigno'r to United Shoef'lVIachineryfCorp'oration, Borough' V of;Flemington," J of 1 f .of each shoe upper,the we1t being bent'widthwise at right anglestq the upper inorder to attach the outsole, 'Where storm welts are employed in the construction oi a Dre-Welt shoe, it someparts one edge of the welt which isgto be sewed to the upper, then arginal; portion of the upper being insertedbetweentwo of the partshefore sewing. The flapparts of thewelt are then permanentl yi formed ;be fore, sewing by bending the I times is the practice t divid into" three fiap like third 'remainingpart along thejdividededgeioi the welt throughright a jngles to the flaps which are to be'sewedfto the upper in a separate l5end'-.-

,ingfoperationa In, this waxi-the thirdpart 'ean i be lgpt clea r of the seam while attaching the up- 7 sewing a. welt having a divided "edge, a more'uniform seam' may ordinarily be formed if the full thicknessyundivided edge of the welt is guided by an edge gage to direct the welt with relation to f the stitch-forming devicesofthe sewing machine; 'When' the fullthickness, undivided edge Q 7 of thestrip is so guided, it is unnecessary-toform the welt permanently beforehandyone-fiap-like partbeing deflected onlytemporarily while sewing, and led clear of the seam whieh passes ih mlgh the other parts. The 'onlydifilculty in sewing a divided Welt in this manner is that by I temporarily deflecting one flap-like partto clear the seam, the other parts are also deflected.

slightly with respect to the undivided edge; Thus the undivided edgeis forced somewhatj ou t of the plane of either of the reniainingrdivided parts 7 and; if an edge gage of ordinary construction'is used along'the undivided edge, it isldifiicult to guide the deflected'welt accurately with respectto the stitch-forming devices because of the tendency for the undivided edge under edgewise pressure to become deflected still further from the parts at the divided edge. Accordingly, theobjects offthe present invention ere generally to 1, les n 60. 202,332.) f -8'Cla'ims.-- (Cl 112f4)- l A emi re attendees:wh n: Brewin whichqvelt is dividedelong {me edge and gg-f H "fi cted wid hwi e tempo yout, ft 'n enefii the ,other undivided edge, and particularly to Dyer whileguiding it into line with-the stitch-forming tureof the invention is lto;providea' welt'guidein p to divideisaid oppositeledgeinto flaps, at least'one v j of wh ich naps isapplied and sewed to them'arflap of whichis' temporarily deflected at an angle strip" in this anner, an improvement in] i i em -e emwe e; e

'ftndifhert fqre; i V Another natureof it an improved methodf v strip to the marginal portion' 'of a 'shoe upper in v whichfo'ne flapo' fithe dividediweltf'edgefigtemporarily deflected widthvviseclear of the 's'eani'and fwidtnmsejag a ifesult' oi the guiding actiomff "sewnjto the" marginal portion of'a'shoe' upper- I withjoneofjthe divisions defiectedat an angle to 'Wise accessib e port ons; OfT'the stitch forming? de'-,.

it I 7' I m ltto: the-i ar ine l ort q ofla 1 9 time? vent furthendefleotion;Widthwise in 51.101118; welt" de e n esew ne me ned r nathe .fq fm ii n I ia s a v l a ;With thee and; otherobjects in view, one fee,- 5 a sewing machine for directing andsuppoitingi in II angular relation to. the work supporting siiriaees of the work supportand presser-foot of the maehineig, surface at onefedge of dwelt Istrip, cut along its opposite edge parallel to the side surface ginalpoi tionof ashoe upper, and the remaining ielear or the s am while sewing, J 'e g rovm n'gja gliideiori supporti g the undividededge fo rmity end trengmfor these am resnitssolthtit v type having a more,;.ne

Leavi g dvided" welt thenndivided edgeis'iguidedalong itsiouteriedge SHrfaCe'andiiS supported along'f'one SidQ'tQfiprei-f} vent the welt ffom'ibeing defl cted still"v further .gjwnen isiiweltstri jnavingon divided edg another, "thejdeflected part mayeoverfup'dthen 4' vices inthe sewingma c'hine employediso that is 1 inconvenient to "sever' the threads manually at the Lend of a seam, 'thusfrendering' it'difiicult to free'the completely sewedi'shoeparts from the machine;"Amachinejfor performingsuchsew' ing operations mayfbe provided Witha, work sup--j port 'detachably secured'to the irame'of'the ma- ;chine,' the' work support having elongated pen forations or slots' to receive thework penetrating.

instruments, as more fully described in UJ'S. Let p. ters- Patent 'toiMerrickf No. 490,854of January 3 1;

1893. When such machines are stoppem the main sewing shaft is rotated manuallyuntil the 1-1, work penetrating instruments am; withdrawn from the work. ihese instruments r'nay include the needles to 'be moved in the direction of feed one or more hook needles acting from beneath while engagingthe'work, Th needles are both the work support through the perforations there supported in a' single needle bar 1 arranged to be in, and when the needles are withdrawn, loops or 1 actuated; as more fully illustrated and described thread are carried in the hooks through the perk in the 'Merrick patent referred to. During the forations of the Work support. Where elight operation of this machinethe work is clamped threads are; used,- the practice is topull the work againsttheupper surface of the -.work support by 'l forcibly from it Work supp rtg causiiigthe fipfss r joot 'd end thegwork support L-shap'ed .Lthreads to be broken in' the hooks of the needles, having-the needle perforations ii in one arm and cutter whichwill operate efiectiir'e1y, partichl 1 butwhere heavy-threads ofgood quality are uti-- 19 th other arm detachablyr secured toth'e frame lized; there is danger o f'injury to the-W011i; orto" "oftlie machine indieated'at lll by a tongueand the machine when the threads are thus bifokehv foov-onhectionand set screwsl The needles A 'further Obj ct of the'inyentiony therefore, 57 reciprocate beneath the work support to peneis to provide a, simplified and improved trejte'j-the'jwor-li while clamped, moving in the dirly recti ohof iifwhile in engagement Withthe whenthe machine e p ier this p p e s i work to feedthe-work, and thereafter withdrawof the type indicated,-hav ing one or more hook mg from the workpwith loops of thread held in needles arranged eneaththeworksubhort, T'of- *tliir hdolis'. A-T'terwithdrawing from the work,

permit the work to be withdrawn frblri fihejilfii th jneedles are back fed' the length of a stitch,

isn'the worm ll im t j and'the operations are repeated.

thewere sup-pert; oai eliei stitches 'pvii f d fiiieetine tiieeiiai-tsfteeeth z'r-he r has t or sine defiected fiorh the nape 11! u V pr te m ihei eeesi e rw to enter the --ldops'--carried by the; r'ie'edl'e yen one side only of eachloop. By-

werkfgthene e eseie a ieeuts rtlie nefllesjare'withdrawn no se the men e is not stopped flh e e ime c' n i" 'etij'actecll p' itioh 1 ftion, with-this featurefotfthe T v k=reediirg mdvenient of tlieneedies given a e -i i EE i ticiiisjahd a range 1 V "st beqamjcraimea," h'ich 7 i oe-appareiittbthose 'iii'theffoilowih d est wr t eatmp efiweeetyi rime iies at fight "angles; to its supporting: surface za gage roll it) alongiwhi'chl the outer surface 10f the undivided Wlt edge masses: .To-qiretem-rumner defleotiohrih a 'widthwiseodireotion 33f the wen strip: :as" ":a 7 result dl pressui e 'ef "the undivided 'e'e e: against-the re-i1 30, the-side :sui i aee tff the v s e ees I the wei me'me {thus-held on with *r speet-to thefiines QA s"illustratd gin thej'fi awings 'afinachineior TWDPQIR l 'il'g t 'w'eit 't'o B'held niore fif-mly fforfiiingfa double'rowlchainstitchsearn -isproinrracejae s; t e grime nana ronianfffl fiiified witha ar' rp allelstraieht hook needles I ,Wrn t e" eiamptaitifitiisiieegeeeagthetheir 'g'e iaewe firmer]; hafing'elongaftedperfira; 2 11 iei -fiimith naniepenmgei'ihee ei-feiid tiohsbr slows to receive the needles andperfiiit 7'5 meterea 'ma terottea dboiit the bo'ltasa :eweit mth'guiar'reiatmn to the ha s'at, the j v 'il iib erfsie i i 1 I-Q WQ r ii i tli a l t e i ea li me L a il axis; 9 th, 3 91-5 Q tends-substantially'parallel to th seam, line form yt e aeh -ne i-Thej u s eb w ies miewmeo edg i's asepportea ty-a nafi eepereare ge' -adjaoe'ift the v to that naturally assumed by the sidesurface along the -undivided welt [edge as a result of widthwise defiectioniof the thirdffiap 1-20; T

V 1 7 2,326,272 pivot sothattheupperqwelt supportingfsurface of the block may belocated in :a' position'parallel "-The nature andi'scope of theinvent onhavmg been indicated, and-a particular embo'dimentofj t t nrhavin beellfipecifically described move th'egage'ro1l3dtowards-orfrom' thejwork support, the block 24 1s slotted toreceive the :bolt

beneaththe work-suppert 'are'fcovered atjone side downwardly defiected fiap Zt'of the welt stripso 7 that access ,to the parts is rendered dificult. 7 When the machine is broughtto rest, theneedles I are withdrawn-carrying loops *ofthread in their byjthe upper 22'and at'th'e other side by the hooks," so that in order to removejthe workcon veniently the' threadsjmust be. disengaged from 7 fromthe worksupport, the 'threads'willbebroken along tnatfportion engagedgbythe needles, but

the present machine there is pivotally mounted on the work support a thread cuttercomprising a knife (see Fig. 4) having a pair'of loop spreading points sharpened along an edge of each to enter the loops ofthread carried by the needles, and to sever one side of each loop which By means of the knife, the threads are severed close to the under suriace of the work, the ends of the threads remaining attached to the machine being readily disengaged from the needles.

Ihe knife 34is secured to an upwardly projecting arm of a lever 36 having a fulcrum stud s8 clamped in the downwardly extending arm of the work support 4. The other arm of the lever extends rearwardly. and laterally of .thework "support and forms a manually operablehandle V with which to actuate the cutter, a spring '40 connected between the work, support and the lever being provided to maintain the cutter in chine uniformly in exactly-the same position suregon the welt ledge' 'o f," th

ins-o doing the needles maybecome' bent or other associatedparts damaged. v

In order to disengage the workfrom the work, 7 support conveniently at the end of 'a seam, in

stitch formingdevices', ,afwor foot, a welt 'guide spajcedffrombutwit its a'd jacent edge at substantially'the same'level'as, the 7 work support for supporting in angularfrelati on j J to the work supporting surface of thework sup'- porton'eedg'e of a welt strip cut alcng its opposite edge parallel tothe grain'surface': todivicle said edge into separate flaps, at least one .of which flaps P sses towards 'the "pointaoffoperationbf I the stitch forming devices along the work sup: v port to secure thereto the marginalportion of a J shoe upper, and an edge" engaging element on the guide located .to deflect the remaining flap at an angle clear of'the' seam against the work supcause said remaining flap tq pass; f1,

. is connected to the work as shown in Figure 5. a

1 port and to at the end of the sewing, thepositions of the" loops of thread carried by the needles when free of the work may vary substantially, thus rendering it difiicult to sever the threads accurately between the perforations in the work support and the needles.

in the lengths of thread ends remaining attached to the work, the pivotal mounting of the lever To avoid substantial variation 38 is located as far as possible from the perfora tions in the work'support, and the arrangement of the knife 34 is such that a swinging movement of relativelylong radius is imparted to the knife so as to carry it along the line of feed close to the under surface'of the work support, through avdistance absent-311m.has. 5f hefeerdihg movements ofthe' needl 2 T what'is 'claimed is:

welt to the the'same'levelwiththe orkisuppoitfor'directe ing and supporting oneedgejofia wel'tgstrip out I ge parallel tothe grain faceto dividesaid edg leastpne' ofwhichfis along "its 1 opposite e edge engagingelementon theigiiide-bei glocajted' i toi deflect the remaining ,napi at ngle clear of the seam against theiworklsupport' bylpresgj v V ie e m 2..A sewing machine'havihg, in corn ha "of 'esse' si r p t;

through the Spacelbetween the'wo k and the-welt guide. r g

3. A sewing ;machine having, in'combination, stitch forming devices,-a worksupport,a presser foot, a welt'guide for directing' and supporting in angular relation to thework supporting surface of the work support one edgeof-awelt strip cut along'its opposite edge'parallel to thegrain surface-to divide said edge into separate flaps at least one of which isap'plied to the marginal pore tion of ashoe upper to be sewn thereto and the i remaining flap of which is'bent at anrang'leto clear the seam, and .a'vertically adjustable bar on which the welt guide'is pjivotally mounted to adjust'the angle of the guide in parallel supptorting relation to the undivided edge of the welt sr1p. 4. The method of controlling a welt strip hav ing one edge divided into two or'more parallel flaps and another undivided edgeiwhile sewing certain of theflaps tothe marginal portion of a shoe upper, which consists in leading one or more of the flaps together with the marginal portion of the upper alonga work support into the line of r operations of a sewing machine, deflecting an other flap ofthe divided edge to clear the sewing 1 line, directing the outer surface of the undivided edge and supporting a side of the undivided edge I at an angle to all the flaps of the divided edge'toprevent the welt from being deflected still fur ther widthwiseas a result ofthe guiding action. 5 r 7 5. The method of controlling a welt strip. having one edge divided into three flaps and another V V I undivided edge while sewing themarginal portion;

a. edi uith ma na portion of a shoe upper o b sewn'thereto; the

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